Hi, yes, hello, do you like maximalist fashion? And you haven’t seen Gankutsuou? Cool, we need to change that.

The 2004 anime Gankutsuou is a retelling of The Count of Monte Cristo. The moral of the novel is “the best revenge is a life well-lived.” The moral of the anime is the same, but with 1000% more DraMa.

In case you haven’t seen this mid-2000s anime gem, let me break it down for you. It’s the same story as Alexander Dumas’ novel but told from the point of view of Albert. Albert de Morcef is the son of the Count’s ex-fiancee and (maybe) the man who betrayed him by sending him to die. By taking this route, we got a touching story of lost innocence, and how one decision can have devastating effects.

Also, it’s in space.

Yeah, I know, you’re already googling it. But I want to talk about the design choices as well because they are perfection. This show and its over-the-top designs have been rattling around in my head since I was fifteen. Now that we’re ending the post-minimalist era, and embracing maximalist fashion, I knew now was the perfect time to revisit this series.

French Lit, But Turn It Up to 11

Gankutsuou is not some small, indie anime. Mahiro Maeda created it. His resume includes Studio Ghibli films, a bunch of Evangelion series, Kill Bill, and (my personal favorite) Mad Max: Fury Road.

This anime was also popular when it came out in 2004, specifically in Japan and France. Maeda blended the 400-page novel with the natural drama of animation, then Baz Lurman’d the hell out of it. The result is a complex story with tons of fun details for viewers.

When creating the story, Maeda chose an aesthetic influenced by Ukiyo-e paintings and Art Nouveau artists, like Gustav Klimt. Then using a layering program, they placed outlines of the characters over specific prints. While the characters move, the patterns underneath do not.

The effect seems gimmicky at first, but it’s clear that each pattern informs the character’s motivations and journey. From our conflicted hero’s checkered suits to the greedy Dangler’s wall of money, every print has a storytelling purpose. The creators care so much about the look of the show they even pulled in Anna Sui to create costumes for the final episodes.

I love the design of this show. They allowed characters to wear many outfits, and each one works as a window into the character’s psyche. The result is operatic, which works well for the source material.

The Art of Mixing Patterns and Prints

Instead of what I normally do on Hero Looks (characters first, sparkle of Fashion Magic second), I felt it would make more sense to reverse the formula here.

Mixing patterns is somewhat akin to summoning a Patronus charm. It’s wise to go over guidelines first, then look at how Gankutsuou does it.

First, go with your gut. This bit of Fashion Magic is super personal. Prints you love may drive your friend mad, and vice versa. Get to know what you love and then go wild.

Second, if you don’t want to do a full mixed-patterned look, then try adding a patterned accessory to your outfit. A printed scarf or belt can add a lot to your outfit, and edge you closer to maximalist fashion territory.

Third: Early mornings when you’re running late are not the time to experiment with patterns. If you do, you’ll feel stressed, and put off by the whole experience. Until you become a pattern mixing wizard, give yourself time to experiment.

Right, down to brass tacks:

• Match Your Prints- Pair large floral prints with more subdued floral prints, animal prints with other animal prints, and shapes with similar shapes.
• Matching Colors- Have two shirts in the same color family, but the prints are different? Give them a try.
• Contrasting Colors- Not a fan of matching colors? Then try contrasting colors, or the colors that are opposite each other on the color wheel. For more information, check out my post about fashion colors.
• Treat Patterns as Neutrals- There are few patterns that are so accepted in fashion that they might as well be neutrals. These include animal prints and some plaids. If you’d see the pattern at an office party, chances are you can treat them as neutral.

Dressing Like Gankutsuou: A Case Study in Maximalist Fashion

Now that we’ve covered some ground rules on how to mix prints, let’s take a look at how this anime makes it work.

The aesthetic of Gankutsuou is influenced by the Japanese art style Ukiyo-e. This style created lush, imaginative scenes using natural motifs and heavy outlines. The Western style of Impressionism, also seen in this anime, took one look at what the Japanese were doing, and thought “That looks sick as hell.” And voila, Art Nouveau was born.

Yes, I’m being simplistic, but for the sake of analyzing this anime, it’s important you see these three influences. There are several homages to Gustav Klimt and his gold phase. The character Haydee’s silhouette feels very Japanese, even though it’s not, and several characters feature patterns of Eastern and Western influence. We’re looking at a story that emphasizes Mood over Accuracy, and the design carries the brunt of this aesthetic.

If this sounds like a good time, take a look at a few of the key characters, and how you can use their pattern-mixing in your Hero Look.

Albert de Morcef- Uncomplicated Color Palettes for the Drama

Albert is the most childlike character in this show, and there’s an actual child in the story. At one point he even wears a pirate costume to a dinner party, with a jacket that literally spells “Pirate.”

Albert is a kid, very naive, trusting, and loyal. Because of that, it makes sense that the bulk of his color palette is simple: black, white, and blue.

He starts the series with a lot of checkered patterns, which all work because of his simple color scheme. As the story progresses, he gives up checkered patterns for simple white or black outfits, before returning to solid, more grown-up, blues. These outfits feature subtle, monochromatic patterns that add texture to an otherwise basic outfit.

The Count of Monte Cristo- Barely Concealed Passions

The Count not only wants to conceal his past identity as Edmund Dantes, but he also wants to leave behind all the pesky emotions involved. Of course, because those emotions drive the story, he does a terrible job of both leaving and concealing.

His outfits are a visual representation of this. He wears dark colors, but the inner lining of his cloaks and the detail on his sleeves betray his passions with bright colors. This also serves to create a visual opposite of his betrayer, Ferdinand Mondego, who wears monochromatic light-colored outfits like his son.

Haydee Tebelin- Stylized Lines

As the heir to a throne on a faraway planet, Haydee has to look both regal and otherworldly. She has one key look (although I love her opera dress): the stained-glass robe that she wears for most of the story.

Like I said earlier, the cut of her outfit is reminiscent of the Ukiyo-e style. It has clean lines and spreads out around her like a fan. Because the lines of her outfit are very structured, the stained glass art pattern is centerstage without being overpowering. This is significant because her print is less pattern and more of a picture. The louder your print is, the better it looks on a structured garment.

Eugine Danglers- The Power of Accessories

Ah, my 1960s babe, with her mod silhouettes in pop colors like blues and pinks. Eugine has the most outfit changes in the show. Her outfits also feature strong lines, but they’re more modern English than Eastern. Her outfits reflect her desire to get away from the gaudy wealth of her family because when your home is literally wallpapered in money, you tend to want to get away from that.

Eugine also is the best example of using patterns in accessories. From scarves to cravats and colored lenses, she’s a great case study on how to introduce prints in small ways.

The Magic of Maximalism and Prints

Growing up, my mom told me to pick out clothes like Jackie Kennedy: stick with solids, eschew prints.

And for the most part, that works. On most days this summer, you’ll find me reaching for my denim cutoffs and tank tops. But on those special days, I’ll wear a tropical shirt, or a polka-dot dress, and those days? Those are the days I feel most like myself.

I’m not saying you have to wear prints to feel like yourself. I’m just hoping that you’ll at least try a print or two, just to see how it looks. And if you don’t like it, no harm, no foul. But if you do, please let me know, I’d love to see your favorite print!

---

Shop the Post

Heads up, this post contains affiliate links, including Amazon Associate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. That means that if you click on the link and make a purchase, I’ll get a small fee at no extra cost to you. This fee helps me keep the site running, and maybe buys me a cup of coffee :)